How TikTok’s Hyper-Feminine Community is Increasing Diversity in the Fashion Industry
Image credit: Selkie
With the rise of bows as a key fashion trend and the craze surrounding Barbie pink this summer, in many ways 2023 saw the resurgence of the stereotypical ‘’girly girl.’’ Adorned in bubblegum pink and sparkles, the hyper-feminine archetype was popularised in the ‘’Legally Blonde’’ and ‘’Mean Girls’’ era of the early 2000s, but faded from the mainstream in the 2010s with the rise of ‘’girlboss’’ feminism that saw women being encouraged to trade their pink ensembles for grey pantsuits in order to be taken seriously in the workplace. However, in an age of growing economic uncertainty, the 2020s have seen a cultural shift once again, with an increase in women unashamedly embracing their inner femininity. But make no mistake, the hyper-femininity of the 2020s is not the same as the hyper-femininity of the 2000s, where a thin and white body type was prevalent. At the forefront of this movement is a diverse TikTok community made up of influencers of all sizes and cultural backgrounds, who are encouraging women everywhere to find empowerment in femininity.
‘’Hyper-femininity to me is an overt and shameless expression of appreciation for things associated with femininity; especially things that may not always be celebrated in society’’ says Brielle Lynette (@missbriellelynette), an African American influencer with over 100,000 followers on TikTok. The hyper-femininity aesthetic can be defined as an ultra-feminine and girly style of dressing; think bows, lace, sparkles, romantic details, a pastel colour palette… and lots and lots of pink. ‘’Hyper-femininity’’ also serves as an umbrella term for the numerous niche aesthetics that have rapidly gained popularity on apps such as TikTok and Instagram. #Princesscore, #coquette, #barbiecore, #angelcore, #pinkpilatesprincess…. there is a hyper-feminine style of dressing to suit any occasion or mood. Some TikTok influencers, such as Sandra Duran (@thesandraduran), post videos showcasing pink puffy princess dresses which look like something straight out of a fairytale, whilst others like Lynette are known for elegant, preppy ensembles that she describes as ‘’'First Lady' or 'Politician's Wife' [...] essentially classic elegance with a touch of modesty.’’ There are also several plus-sized influencers at the heart of the movement, such as April (@apriljxo), who provide style advice on how best to wear hyper-feminine clothing on a larger body type. Simply put, this is a fashion movement for everyone, regardless of ethnicity, size or lifestyle.
Image credit: IG @thesandraduran
Image credit: IG @missbriellelynette
In an era where ‘’diversity’’ and ‘’inclusivity’’ have become buzzwords used by marketing teams across the mainstream fashion industry, at first glance, the diverse representation that exists within the TikTok hyper-feminine community may not seem like anything particularly unique. After all, some may argue it has become the norm for high-profile labels such as Dior and Chanel to feature ethnic minority models on their runways. However, the mainstream fashion industry still has a long way to go when it comes to inclusivity. Not only is diverse size representation almost completely lacking, with size 0 models still the overwhelming norm on high fashion runways, but the majority of ethnic minority representation is largely tokenistic. Tokenism can be defined as the ‘’practice of making only a perfunctory or symbolic effort to do a particular thing, especially by recruiting a small number of people from under-represented groups in order to give the appearance of sexual or racial equality within a workforce.’’ In essence, while models of colour are included on mainstream fashion runways and editorials, their presence is typically limited to only one or two ethnic minority women and often feels like an afterthought. Furthermore, the models of colour who are selected for such opportunities are almost always thin with primarily euro-centric features, meaning the majority of women of colour will not feel truly represented by them. This is supported by a study by the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion, which found that the British fashion industry did not pass the inclusivity test, with 85% of respondents surveyed saying they do not feel represented by the fashion industry. In contrast to the tokenistic approach to diversity taken by mainstream fashion labels, the influencers of the TikTok hyper-feminine community are offering real and authentic representation to their audience, creating a space for themselves in the fashion industry on their own terms. ‘’I definitely notice that TikTok does a better job at showcasing and celebrating diversity than mainstream fashion brands,’’ says Lynette. ‘’I do recognize, though, that this is because the target audience and market on TikTok is a lot different than that of luxury brands such as 'Chanel' [...] whereas on TikTok, there are a lot of younger people (Gen Zs to Early Millennials) who want whatever is trending, and feel that diversity is a mandatory qualification for any brand they support.’’
One impact of this movement is changing societal ideas around femininity and beauty. The toxic culture prevalent in society surrounding beauty standards often links traditional femininity with thinness and whiteness. The representation that exists within the hyper-feminine TikTok community is helping to make the feminine style of dressing more accessible for women of all sizes and backgrounds, expanding what it means to be feminine and beautiful. Kerry Ingram (@glaminista08), a Black and Hispanic hyper-feminine content creator with over 68,000 followers on TikTok, says that an increase in women of colour embracing the girly girl aesthetic has led to more conversations surrounding feminine aesthetics and race. ‘’For the hyper-feminine aesthetic in particular, it’s common for Black creators to have troll comments accusing us of wanting to be white or hating our own race.’’ This backlash faced by women of colour on TikTok is not uncommon, with Lynette also noting similar experiences. ‘’As a black woman, I do often receive criticism about being hyper-feminine. I am often ridiculed and told that I 'want to be white' or that I simply can't be hyper-feminine because I am black. I am also accused of being 'stuck up' [...] because of the way I choose to dress and carry myself. Sadly, I see a lot of other minority girly girls in the community go through the same thing.’’ Nevertheless, these influencers still serve as a source of inspiration for ethnic minority women who may have previously been too afraid to dress in the feminine aesthetic. ‘’For every one of those ignorant responses, we get a ton of other comments with Black women stating how much our content has helped them feel more comfortable liking this aesthetic,’’ says Ingram. ‘’For me, it’s always been about allowing WOC to feel seen in this aesthetic, and I make content to remind them that you can be Black and soft, you can love hyper-feminine things and still love yourself too [...] Me wearing a bow or pink should not equate to me wanting to be white; it simply means I’m wearing something I like, and Black women should be allowed to do that unapologetically.’’ Safia Ebrahim, a South Asian fashion student, has been watching hyper-feminine content on TikTok for two years and has felt more empowered and encouraged to dress feminine ever since. ‘’I don’t feel like I really follow trends anymore, I just buy what I like or see online, which is mainly because of TikTok if I’m honest [...] my wardrobe (and even the everyday items that I use) have started to incorporate more elements of pink.’’ Lynette notes how this increase in diversity within the hyper-feminine aesthetic can also be seen in Hollywood and mainstream media. ‘’I have definitely seen a shift in the idea of 'femininity' in today's culture versus that of the early 2000s [...] it is refreshing to see ladies like 'Halle Bailey' (the 2023 Little Mermaid) and 'Sharon Rooney' ('Lawyer Barbie' in the 2023 Barbie Movie) getting the chance to embrace their femininity and softer side; as opposed to the past where they would've been reduced to the 'sidekick' to the pretty, white, blonde main character.’’
Image credit: IG @glaminista08
Image credit: IG @xo_aprilj_xo
The growing movement has also seen an increase in the popularity of hyper-feminine brands such as Selkie who have become known for their inclusiveness. Selkie, founded in 2018 by former Wildfox co-founder Kimberley Gordon, is a brand at the forefront of the hyper-feminine movement with their whimsical and romantic designs. Selkie recently turned heads at New York Fashion Week with their runway show featuring an extremely diverse cast of models. Inclusivity is at the heart of Selkie’s brand values, with Gordon stating in an interview with Elle magazine: ‘’When I started the company, I knew that I wanted to have size inclusivity. But that to me means having silhouettes that actually can be worn universally.’’ What sets Selkie apart from many other brands at Fashion Week is that their approach to diversity is far from tokenistic. Rather than including one lone plus-size model as an afterthought to tick a box on a diversity quota, silhouettes are expertly designed to flatter a range of body sizes and shapes. Camri Hewie (@camrihewie), a fashion model and hyper-feminine influencer with over 22,000 followers, says that after collaborating with Selkie numerous times, she believes they are ‘’one of the best hyper-feminine and girly brands that promotes inclusivity.’’
Image credit: Selkie
The hyper-feminine movement is also impacting how the concept of femininity itself is viewed within society. Feminist movements of the past have looked down upon traditional femininity, with stereotypical ‘’girly’’ things being viewed as frivolous and immature. Growing up, we as young women were often told that dressing too feminine or unashamedly enjoying girly things like makeup and rom-coms would make us be viewed as unintelligent and respected less by men and society. But is this not a form of misogyny in itself? After all, men are rarely encouraged to give up the ‘’childish’’ things (comic books, video games, etc.) that they enjoy for the sake of how society perceives them. Within the hyper-feminine community, reclaiming femininity and being unapologetic in enjoying stereotypically girly things has become a form of feminism in itself. It’s a way for women to tell society that they’re not afraid to express themselves no matter what other people think (see our article on The Feminism of Hyper-Femininity). ‘’Reclaiming hyper-femininity is definitely creating a powerful and positive impact on women finding their strength in femininity today. While in the past, femininity has been looked at as women stepping away from their 'girly', 'soft' and 'innocent' sides, and embracing a more 'rough' and 'independent' lifestyle; the reality is that women are designed to be soft, to be graceful and elegant. I think that society is just now starting to realise that there is strength in that softness,’’ says Lynette. ‘’We’re reclaiming what it means to be feminine and choosing it every day, instead of stifling what makes us feel like our best selves for the approval of men,’’ says Ingram. The effects of this can also be seen beyond social media and in the workforce. In the past, women were often cautioned against being too feminine in workplace environments for fear that they would be taken less seriously. However, Ingram believes that things have started to change. ‘’Outside of social media, I’ve worked in the tech industry for the last five years. Originally, I was one of the only women to dress the way I do [...], and I had a lot of conversations with my colleagues about how we often feel we have to hide our style in order to be taken seriously. I’ve continued to push past that barrier because I know I’m just as worthy [of] a seat at the table as everyone else, and over time, I’ve noticed more women also starting to push past this obstacle in the tech industry as well. Whenever I have conversations with these women now, we’re more open to talking about our social media style inspo, and supporting one another to continue pushing forward with what we love despite what others may think.’’
As a content creator myself (@dreamingofdior on TikTok), a big part of my motivation as an influencer is to empower other women, especially ethnic minority women, to reclaim and celebrate their femininity. Growing up as a South Asian woman in a predominantly white area, the ways in which my appearance contrasted with my peers was a big form of insecurity for me when I was younger. I felt as if I did not fit into the traditional ‘’feminine’’ beauty standard, which is so intrinsically linked with whiteness in Western society, and despite always loving girly things, I did not always feel confident to dress the way I wanted. This all changed in early 2021 when my involvement in the hyper-feminine social media movement began. During this time, the launch of the popular Netflix show Bridgerton coincided with the start of another Covid-19 lockdown and a rise in users on TikTok. The princess-like, romantic designs featured on the show captured the imaginations of its audience, leading to a craze where corset sales skyrocketed, people took to TikTok to express their fantasies of attending a regency style ball and videos tagged with ‘’princess-core’’ and ‘’regency-core’’ increased rapidly. Alone in my bedroom during a national lockdown, it was the perfect climate for me and others alike to find an escape in childhood fantasies of becoming a real-life princess. I found a renewed joy in dressing up in pink princess gowns and lace trimmed corsets; it was the type of outfit I had last worn as a young child, but I loved it just the same as a then 19 year old woman. However, the best part of creating TikTok content was the sense of community and the connections I made with other creators. From the interviews I conducted for this piece, I know I am not alone in feeling this way. ‘’I’ve noticed an influx of women of colour being showcased in the hyper-feminine community, and that has been amazing to witness,’’ says Hewie. ‘’I love that no matter how different our backgrounds are, we all come together and are able to connect over our love of pink and hyper-feminine themes/people in pop culture,’’ says Lynette. ‘’I would describe the community as extremely supportive and energetic. We are all constantly supporting each other by sharing one another's content, keeping each other updated on new changes in the algorithm, commenting on each other's posts for engagement, etc... We really do all want to see each other grow as influencers.’’
What makes the hyper-femininity community so unique is that it is truly a fashion and cultural movement led by all types of women, for all types of women. The influencers in this community take unapologetic ownership of their identity and sense of femininity; these women are entrepreneurs, many of them taking their platform beyond TikTok to grow their own businesses and collaborate with high-profile fashion brands, and no one can accuse them of dressing the way they do for the approval of men. ‘’To me, hyper-femininity means allowing yourself to celebrate all the beautiful things that come with being a woman. I’m inspired by nature, art, music, and female friendships,’’ says Hewie. Overall, this community is evident of the strength that comes from femininity and the freedom to dress femininely.
Image credit: IG @camrihewie
Image credit: IG @thesandraduran
References:
Adegeest, D.-A. (2023) The British fashion industry failed an inclusivity test, FashionUnited. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/the-british-fashion-industry-failed-an-inclusivity-test/2021081257084 (Accessed: 08 January 2024).
Bateman, K. (2022) The cult of Selkie — selkie at New York Fashion Week Spring 2023 , Elle. Available at: https://www.elle.com/fashion/a41283105/the-cult-of-selkie/ (Accessed: 08 January 2024).
(No date) Tokenism | english meaning - cambridge dictionary. Available at: https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/tokenism (Accessed: 08 January 2024).